Tiruchengode

 

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Temple of Thevaram Hymns - 7

Tiruchengode

Among the celebrated sacred sites (paadal-petra sthalams) of Kongu Nadu, the most important is today’s Tiruchengode, known in the purāṇic era as Thirukkodi Maada Sengundroor.

This is a hill temple where the Divine appears in manifest form. By the Lord’s will, the name of the temple itself has become the name of the town.

It is the abode of Arthanareeswarar – the Lord who is half-male, half-female (Shiva united with Parvati).

Though it is a Shiva temple, it is also the holy abode of Thirumurugan dwelling as Sengottu Velavar.

Here, Arthanareeswarar – Shiva and Parvati in a single form – Sengottu Velavar (Muruga) in a standing posture with Valli and Devasena and Maha Vishnu is seen as Adi Kesava Perumal with Sridevi and Bhudevi, all showering their grace together.

Among the 274 Shiva shrines praised in Thevaram hymns, Tiruchengode is listed as the 208th. To visit Tiruchengode is a divine gift that many devotees long for but only a few receive.

Come, let us circumambulate Tiruchengode’s Arthanareeswarar hill temple and the sacred hill itself and receive grace.

Tiruchengode Arthanareeswarar hill temple view

Tiruchengode

Because the hill is reddish, it is called Sengodu (“red hill”); Thiruchengode also carries the meanings “beautiful, God-imbued red hill” and “steep hill.”

From a great distance it appears like the head of Shiva.

From the upper-storey street of the town the hill looks like a serpent, hence the names Nagasalai.

The sacred hill where Arthanareeswarar dwells is also known as Nagagiri, Sonagiri, Rathagiri, Sedamalai, Vayumalai, Merumalai and Kodhai Malai.

In Tamil Nadu, only Tiruchengode and Vasudevanallur have Arthanareeswarar temples; of these, Tiruchengode is richer in purāṇic lore and divine plays.

The Lord and the Mother

Here, the Lord bestows grace as Arthanareeswarar; the Goddess is Bhagampriyal.

Lord Arthanareeswarar

In this shrine, Lord Murugan appears as Sengottu Velavar and Maha Vishnu as Adi Kesava Perumal. Though a Shaiva temple, it is especially dear to Lord Murugan.

Sengottu Velavar

Worshipped By

Kedara Gowri, Vishnu, Sambandar, Kapila Deva Nayanar, Pattinathar, Sekkizhar, Arunagirinathar and others.

A Shrine Praised in Hymns

In this temple, Thirugnanasambandar sang Thevaram hymns beginning “Ventha vennīr aninthu…”. He also sang the Thiruneelakanda hymns here; thus it is a temple of Thevaram hymns.

It is said that Tiruchengode was the first site Sambandar visited on his Kongu-country pilgrimage.

After visiting many Shiva shrines, Sambandar later returned here and, to cure his disciples’ immature ailments, sang the commanding hymn “Theevinai vanthu emmai theenda pera Thiruneelakandam”, praising the Lord – so records the Periya Puranam.

Arunagirinathar praised Sengottu Velavar in 25+ Tiruppugazh songs, 8 verses of Kandar Alankaram and 1 verse in Kandar Anuboothi.

Vannachcharapam Dandapani Swamigal also sang here a few hymns here.

Stone inscriptions from the times of King Rajaraja I and Mysore Krishnaraja Udayar and the temple legend by Veerakaviraja Panditar record many special details.

Sacred Tree (Sthala Vriksha)

The temple’s sacred tree is Iluppai (mahua). It stands by the Kanakasabai near the Nataraja shrine on the northern prakara (temple courtyard).

Iluppai tree

Sacred Tanks (Theerthas)

This temple has many meritorious Theerthas: Deva, Ganapathi, Vishnu, Indra, Shiva, Kumara, Papanasa, Dhinma, Bhairava, Vana, Shanmuga, Vayu, Agni, Sapta Kanniya and more.

Select Theerthas:

Deva Theertha

Beneath Arthanareeswarar's sacred feet. Priests distribute this to devotees.

Shiva Theertha

Created by Lord Shiva; also called Dhanma Theertha and Idaba Theertha. It is believed that Lord Shiva Himself created this Theertha so that the Devas, sages, Shiva's devotees, and all worshippers may attain well-being and ultimately liberation(moksha).

Ganapati Theertha

Near the Ilaipari mandapam(hall) on the steps to the temple. When Parvati came to this hill to observe a vow for the Lord’s left half, Ganesha created this theertha for her bath.

Kumara Theertha

On the way to Uchi Pillaiyar temple. A devotee named Vanasura immersed here and worshipped, becoming the leader of Shiva ganas.

Naga Theertha

Along the eastern outer wall. After the ancient war between Vayu and the Naga king, the Naga came here, created this theertha in his name, worshipped and was freed from sin.

Papanasa Theertha

Before the Ilaipari mandapam(hall) after the Devaradiyar Hall on the steps. A Brahmin named Thidhamathi, tormented by possession, bathed here on Sage Agastya’s advice and was cured.

The Hill Temple

Tiruchengode hill temple rises 1,901 feet. From the foot, one can reach the sanctum via the steps or the hill road.

There are about 1,200 steps; by road it is 2.5 km.

Along the stairway are serpent sculptures; one place shows a 20-foot serpent form. At the end of the steps stands the Nagar shrine.

Naga shrine

The 60th step is considered highly sacred and significant; It is said that in ancient times, if someone took an oath standing here, even the opposing side would accept it as true – people call it the people’s court.

Temple Layout

Atop the hill, the five-tier rajagopuram (24.5 feet high) faces the north entrance; there are also east, west and south entrances with a small tower on the south.

Entering from the north, one first meets the shrine of Sengottu Velavar.

Front view of the temple

Sengottu Velavar Shrine

Sengottu Velavar stands facing east in exquisite beauty. Arunagirinathar sang that one needs “four thousand eyes” to behold this form – such is His splendour.

It is a self-manifested (suyambu) form in white stone, uncarved. The base is a square pedestal; there is a hollow on the Lord’s forehead where sandal paste is applied.

With vel in the right hand and the left hand on the hip, crowned with jata-makuta as tilaka, with the rooster flag, and with Valli and Devasena, the Lord bestows grace.

Before the sanctum stand Vinayaka on one side and Arunagirinathar and Nakkirar on the other. The pillars in the hall bear superb sculptures – Veerabhadra, Arjuna in penance, a hunter and a bird-seller rendered lifelike.

Sengottu Velavar shrine

Arthanareeswarar Shrine

This is the Arthanareeswarar temple; Arthanareeswarar is the main deity – a 6-foot, self-manifested, uncarved white-stone image. Lord Shiva appears as Madhorubagan (the One who is half woman).

One half wears a sari, the other a dhothi. On the male side, the right hand holds a staff/weapon; on the female side, the breast is distinct; one sacred foot bears a anklet with bells (silambu) and the other a plain anklet. Even the eyes of the two halves differ by a hair’s breadth.

Beneath Arthanareeswarar’s feet are the emerald liṅga worshipped by Parvati during the Kedara Gowri vow and the image of Bhrigu Muni. Cool Deva Theertha springs from the Lord’s feet and it is given as prasada.

There is no doorway before the sanctum; instead, a stone screen with nine apertures stands. The sanctum faces west.

Adi Kesava Perumal Shrine

The purāṇas say that Adi Sesha and Maha Vishnu came here to worship Shiva. Vishnu resides here as Adi Kesava Perumal, with Sridevi and Bhudevi, in a separate shrine, praised by Nammalvar.

The Aamai Mandapam(Tortoise hall)

The “Aamai Mandapam” (Tortoise Hall) of the temple is special; beneath it are said to be the jeeva samadhis of over a thousand siddhas.

The temple also has shrines for Nari Ganapati and Nagesvara, among others.

The Tortoise Mandapam

Puranic Legends

Many puranic episodes, divine plays and oral traditions relate to Tiruchengode.

How the Serpent Hill Arose

Once, owing to pride, Adi Sesha and Vayu contested who was stronger. The trial: Sesha must hold Mount Meru fast; Vayu must loosen Sesha’s grip. The cosmos trembled and lost balance; at the Gods’ plea, Sesha slackened a little; Vayu struck with force. A peak of Meru and one of Sesha’s heads flew together, fused and sped south. Stained by Sesha’s blood, the peak turned red and split into three: becoming Lanka, Tiruvannamalai and Tiruchengode’s Nagamalai (the Naga hill). This is the mythological story of how the Naga hill came to existence.

The Hill Pointed Out by Agastya

When the Meru peak with a liṅga and part of the Naga fell here, the hill looked like two serpents in union. At that time, on Shiva’s command, Agastya came south to balance the two hemispheres. Sage Kodhai, learning of Agastya’s coming, thought the entwined serpents a bad omen and cursed them to turn to stone.

The Hill Established by Kamadhenu

Once Kamadhenu sought a place to worship the Lord. Shiva said: “On great Meru are five peaks corresponding to My five nadis; take them to south and worship Me.” Kamadhenu brought five peaks: Dhananjaya nadi to Kanjamalai, Krukartha to Puthpagiri, Kurma to Sankagiri, Devata to Nannamalai, and Idaba (Idabha) to Nagamalai – this Tiruchengode. Thus, the female serpent peak was set by Kamadhenu; earlier, the male serpent peak had fallen here after Vayu’s blow. Like Shiva and Parvati united, the two became Nagamalai, Tiruchengode. Even today, from one side the hill looks male, from another female.

How Parvati Gained the Lord’s Left Half

When Murugan left in anger over the mango episode, Parvati grieved. To console her, Shiva took her to a beautiful forest. Seeing a jasmine creeper twined around a mango tree, Parvati bashfully covered Shiva’s eyes; the sun and the moon (His eyes) were blocked and darkness engulfed the world; all activity ceased. Sages pleaded; Shiva told Parvati she had committed a great fault and prescribed expiation: “Perform austerities at Kedara, Kashi and Kanchi; I shall appear to you at Kanchi.”

Parvati reasoned that if she and her Lord were one, such mishaps would not occur; she sought His left half. After tapas at Kedara and Kashi, at Kanchi on the banks of the Kambai, floods rose and the liṅga she worshipped was about to be submerged; she embraced it tightly; Shiva appeared, removed the fault and offered a boon. She asked for the Lord’s left half. He directed her to perform austerities at Tiruvannamalai to receive His full grace, then bade her go to Tiruchengode to complete her vow and become half of Him.

Parvati came joyfully to Tiruchengode. Lord Vinayaka welcomed her; atop the hill Lord Murugan saluted His mother. She installed a liṅga, performed worship and on the waxing Ashtami of Purattasi began the Kedara Gowri vow. Pleased, on the waning Chaturthi of Purattasi, the Lord appeared and granted her His left half. From then, He stands here as Arthanareeswarar, Madhorubagan.

Women continue the 21-day Kedara Gowri Vratam to this day; though celebrated across Tamil Nadu, the observance here is especially spiritually potent.

Kedara Gowri Vratham

Bringi (Bhrigu) Muni

Once on Kailasa, Shiva and Uma sat on the supreme throne. Bringi muni, devoted exclusively to Shiva, worshipped only Him. To show that Shiva and Shakti are one, the Divine Couple drew close without gap; yet Bringi took the form of a bee, circled only Shiva’s head and danced. Angered, the Goddess withdrew the Shakti from his body; he collapsed. Shiva, out of grace, gave him an extra leg to stand. The Lord then taught: “Without Shakti there is no Shiva.” Realizing the truth, Bringi circumambulated and worshipped both and received the Goddess’ blessings.

Brahma and Vishnu

To expiate the sins of slaying Hiranyaksha, Hiranyakashipu and Ravana, Vishnu came to Tiruchengode, worshipped the Divine Couple and was purified, says the purana.

Likewise, Brahma, who lied about seeing the Lord’s crest and lost one head and the right to have temples on the earth, came here, worshipped the Divine Couple and had his mental anguish removed.

Divine Plays (Thiruvilayadal)

The Stone Nandi That Ate Chickpeas

Thiruvaavaduthurai Sivaprakasa Swamigal was a great scholar and spiritual leader of the Saiva tradition.

Once, Swamigal, along with his disciples and devotees, visited Thiruchengode. Following the command of the learned Brahmins of Chidambaram, he arrived there in a grand procession—seated in a palanquin adorned with ceremonial emblems such as the samaram (fly-whisk), alavatam (fan), and idabathadi (symbolic staff) presented by the Chidambaram Brahmins.

However, some people there pointed to him and said that he was a Sutra Brahmin (a lower order priest) and stopped the palanquin, declaring that such a person should not be carried in one.

Smiling gently, Swamigal stepped down from the palanquin and continued his journey on foot.

When the devotees of Tiruchengode learned of this incident, their hearts were pained. They approached those who had stopped the palanquin and spoke about the greatness and divine grace of the Thiruvaavaduthurai Adheenam and its lineage. But still, the group refused to listen.

One among them mockingly said, “You claim that he is a man of great spiritual power. If that is true, let the stone bull (Idabam) in the temple rise and eat the chickpeas (kadalai) we offer!”

Swamigal, calm and detached, thought, “What does it matter if one praises or blames?” and initially paid no heed.

But when the Shiva devotees pleaded with him to perform a miracle—not for his glory, but so that those who insulted him might gain wisdom and turn toward truth—Swamigal consented. He bowed with devotion to Lord Arthanareeswarar and sang the sacred verse beginning with “Villār Podhu Sabaiyil…”

At once, the miracle occurred—the stone Nandi rose, let out a resonant Omkara sound, ate the offered chickpeas, and then returned to its original stone form.

All who witnessed this divine event were astonished. Those who had mocked him folded their hands in repentance. Realizing the power of Sivaprakasa Swamigal, a beloved devotee of Lord Shiva, they fell at his feet in reverence.

This miraculous event stands as a divine message from Lord Arthanareeswarar Himself to those blinded by pride and ignorance.

The Dumb Child Made to Speak by the Lord

A wealthy couple, Paadha-thooli and Sundari Ammal of Kadampadi, in Kongu region, childless despite many vows, hearing from wise people about the greatness of Tiruchengode temple came and surrendered to the Lord. By divine play they were blessed with a son. They named him 'Umaipagan'. Yet, instead of joy, sorrow continued to prevail both in their home and in their hearts. The reason was that their newborn child could not speak a single word - the child was mute. With tears in their eyes, the couple once again sought refuge in the Lord who resides at Tiruchengode. They stood before Him, crying and praying fervently.

Meanwhile, a devotee named Velappar from Emappalli near Poondurai had a dream in which the Lord commanded him to come to Tiruchengode and serve. Overjoyed, Velappar came to Tiruchengode and began performing various acts of divine service and temple duties. Among them, the task he loved the most was waving the samaram (fly-whisk) whenever the Lord appeared in procession.

Everyone marveled at the graceful manner in which Velappar waved the samaram. They praised him with the title "Samara Velappa Bhoopathi".The sacred name remained with him forever. 

Now, let us return to the story of the couple, Paadha-thooli and his wife.

Though they prayed many times and in many ways, the Lord did not open His eyes to make their mute child speak. Grieved by this, the parents, with heavy hearts, decided to surrender the child to the Lord Himself and fixed a date for it.

 

On Vaikasi Visakam day, during the car festival, the distressed parents placed the child beneath the moving wheel of the chariot and walked away weeping in sorrow. 

Seeing this from the chariot, Samara Velappa Bhoopathi was shocked and deeply disturbed. 

Leaping down from the chariot, he ran forward and stood before the wheel, exclaiming: 

“O, Lord! I do not know your divine purpose. Surely it must be for the good. Yet, within me, I hear Your voice telling me that I should save this child. If it is destined that the child must die beneath the chariot wheel, then here - I offer my own head in its place!" Saying this he moved closer towards the rolling wheel.

The chariot passed over – but the child blossomed like a fresh lotus and spoke sweet baby words, to everyone’s wonder.

All the devotees who witnessed the scene folded their hands in reverence towards the Lord, who was seated on the chariot. 

Arthanareeswarar Lifts a Curse

Once, King Singavanman of Sayangala Nadu was hunting and chased a wild boar. The sage Bhrigu took pity on the frightened animal and granted it refuge. Ignoring the sage’s protection, Singavanman killed the boar — and thus incurred the curse of Bhrigu Rishi.

Though the king worshipped at many sacred Shiva shrines, the curse did not leave him. Following the counsel of the wise, he finally came to Tiruchengode and prayed devotedly. There, Lord Arthanareeswarar granted him refuge, persuaded Bhrigu to forgive him, and freed the king from his curse.

On another occasion, the Pandya kingdom suffered from a severe drought, turning the land into a desert. The Pandya king came to this holy site, worshipped Lord Arthanareeswarar and Sengottu Velavar, and as a result, the land became fertile and prosperous once again.

The Divine Play of Sengottu Velavar

Just like Lord Ammaiappan (Arthanareeswarar), the divine plays (Thiruvilayadals) of His son, Lord Murugan—who incarnated by the grace of both His divine parents—are also filled with glory and wonder.

In the Pandiya kingdom, on the banks of the Thamiraparani river, there was a town called Kurugur (present-day Azhwar Thirunagari). There lived a great Tamil scholar known by the title Prathivathi Bhayankaran, a man famed for his sharp intellect and debating prowess.

He would visit royal courts, challenge the poets there, defeat them with his wit and wisdom, and receive rich rewards from the kings—making his living through these intellectual contests.

In Tiruchengode, there lived another learned Tamil scholar named Gunaseelar, a devotee filled with the grace of Lord Murugan—the very Lord who once taught the sacred truths to Lord Shiva and Sage Agasthiyar.

Before Prathivathi Bhayankaran could arrive at Tiruchengode to challenge him, Gunaseelar prayed earnestly to Sengottu Velavar (Lord Murugan of Tiruchengode). That night, Velavar appeared in his dream and said:

“O beloved one, skilled in poetry! Do not worry. I shall protect you. Let your troubles end.”

The next day, Prathivathi Bhayankaran arrived in grand style, seated in a palanquin, and reached the borders of Thiruchengode. As he gazed upon the hill before him—shaped like a serpent—he was filled with awe and began composing a verse in Kalithurai form (a Tamil verse type).

He managed to utter only two lines. Try as he might, he could not compose the next line and grew increasingly confused and restless.

At that moment, a young cowherd boy passed by, driving his cattle. Casually, the boy completed the verse flawlessly, reciting the remaining lines with perfect poetic beauty.

Amazed, Prathivathi Bhayankaran asked, “Who are you?”

The boy replied simply, “I am the youngest student of the poet Gunaseelar.”

Startled and trembling, the proud scholar thought, “If even the youngest of his disciples can compose like this, what must be the power of the master himself?” Overcome by fear and humility, he fled the place.

When others who had witnessed this ran to tell Gunaseelar what had happened, they found that the boy and the cows had vanished completely—disappeared without a trace.

Hearing this, Gunaseelar realized it was none other than Sengottu Velavar Himself who had taken the form of the cowherd boy to protect his devotee. Deeply moved, he rushed to the hill temple, bowed before the Lord, and rejoiced in gratitude.

After all, how could the divine play (Thiruvilayadal) of Lord Velavar be ordinary?

If the father (Lord Arthanareeswarar) can leap ten steps, will not the son (Lord Velavar) leap thousands?

Prayers & Remedies

Devotees pray here for marital harmony, relief from Naga dosha, Rahu dosha, Kaala Sarpa dosha, Kalathra dosha etc. offering abhisheka, vastram(clothes) and vows.

On every Satabhisha (Sadayam) star day, special abhisheka is performed to Ardhanareesvara – this is the star-temple for those born under Sadayam.

On new-moon and special days the temple remains open full-time.

Festivals

Chitra Pournami, Vaikasi Visakam grand car festival, Nataraja Thirumanjanam, Vinayaka Chaturthi, Kedara Gowri Vratam and Navaratri, Arudra Darshan, Padi Thiruvizha, Shivaratri, Masi Magham and Uttira festival. Of these, Visakam car festival is especially grand.

The Arthanareeswarar chariot festival

Girivalam (Circumambulation)

Circumambulating Tiruchengode hill brings great merit. The girivalam path is about 7 km. Doing girivalam on full-moon days is believed to bestow the merit of circling Kailasa and Vaikuntha.

Nearby Shiva Temple

At the foot of the hill is Kailasanathar temple, associated with Arthanareeswarar temple. Here Kailasanathar with Sugantha Kundhalambikai (Elavar kuzhal Ammai) bestows grace; Pallikonda Perumal (Lord Vishnu) is also enshrined. There is a separate Nandhi mandapam with fine sculpture; steps from the Nandhi koopa lead down to the temple well.

Nandhi Devaram

The greatness of Tiruchengode has been revealed as Nandhi Thevaram by Swami Sidhaguruji, founder of Sri Nandheeswarar Gnanapeedam.

கையும் நடுங்க காலும் தளர கடுமூச்சிறைக்க

மெய்யும் சரிய விழியும் சொருக பேச்சு நிற்க

பொய்யும் புழுகும் ஆன நெஞ்சு நினைப்பிழக்க

உய்யும் வழியறியா உயிர் உள் ஊசலாட

ஐயும் கவிழ் நேரம் கொடிமாட செங்குன்றூரானை

செய்யும் நினைப்பால் சிவகதி கிட்டுமாமே

When the hand trembles and the legs grow weak,

When the breath becomes harsh, the body fails, and sight grows dim,

When speech ceases, and the false heart decays,

When the mind loses all thought, and the soul wanders not knowing the way to salvation—

At that very hour of collapse and confusion,

If one thinks with devotion of the Lord of Kodimada Chengunrur (Thiruchengode),

Surely, that thought alone will grant the soul the blissful path of Shiva (Sivagathi).

Location

Tiruchengode lies 18 km from Erode, 45 km from Salem and 32 km from Namakkal. The hill-road entrance is about 0.5 km along the Namakkal Road from Tiruchengode town. Buses go close to the hilltop temple.

Nearest Railway station/Airport

Tiruchengode Railway junction

Coimbatore/Salem Airport

Google maps

https://maps.app.goo.gl/7p7T4wKcA9Mc6uVQ8

Address

Arulmigu Arthanareeswarar Temple, Hill Temple, Tiruchengode - 637211, Namakkal district.

May the glorious Saivaite dharma be manifested throughout the world!
 
Om Namasivaya!

Reviewer

Prof. R. Pandiaraj